Postcard from Islamabad, Pakistan

As we head back to our hotel in Islamabad, my colleague and I can see the police blocking off the roads with huge containers. We're surprised - as the protests weren't supposed to be for another two days. My adrenaline goes up for a second but then levels out when our car gets through the roads without a hitch. Two days later the mass protests determine life in the city and I stay inside the hotel for a few of days, just in case. It's in moments like these that Pakistan resembles the way many Germans see the country. And when I tell friends about moments like these, they're the ones my friends usually find the most interesting. But I prefer to talk about the Pakistan that most of them are not familiar with.

I like to talk about the moments in Pakistan when I realize once again that many places in Pakistan are almost picture-perfect, and full of friendly people. About moments when I'm in the office and look out the window to see a sparkling blue sky, lush trees and birds happily twittering away.

Another side of Pakistan: green and rolling hills

Moments like when an employee from a partner organization, Media House Islamabad, comes in smiling and says, "Lunch is ready". His wife has gone to the trouble of preparing a dish made with eggplant, okra and rice, and is free of animal products. She knows I'm vegan and says it pleases her to do something nice for me. And she believes that when she dies, God will reward her for taking good care of her guests.

I like to talk about the moments when I realize how strong and courageous Pakistani journalists are who are working under harrowing conditions in the dangerous provinces bordering Afghanistan. Moments like when I talk to a journalist from one of Pakistan's most unstable regions where militant groups are clashing with the armed forces. Despite the dangers he tries to write investigative reports. But they can't put allegations against individuals or organizations too much, he says, otherwise he'll fear for his own safety. He tells me he's already been followed, threatened and hurt. As DW Akademie, together with Peshawar University, is planning to establish a center for traumatized journalists, I ask him whether he has ever sought help himself. His eyes well up. And once again I realize how important this project is and recognize the drive and courage of these Pakistani journalists who somehow manage to cope. Pakistan is one of DW Akademie's focus countries in Asia. In cooperation with several Pakistani partner organizations we’re aiming to strengthen the country's media sector and improve access to information. We're doing this in various ways including journalism workshops, radio networks for remote areas, media for children and adolescents as well as many additional projects. And with Asif Khan, DW Akademie now has a permanent Pakistani staff member on location.

My Pakistani "family" (from left to to right): Muhammad Shafiq, Media House coordinator; Asif Khan, DW Akademie Country Representative, Shajahan Sayed, CEO of Media House

I travel regularly to Pakistan and stay for several weeks at a time. Freelance consultants, experts and trainers are also involved in the project, but most of the work is done by our Pakistani partner organizations. And while it's true that we have to keep a close eye on safety issues, there's so much more to Pakistan than that. I like to talk about the moments when my picture of Pakistan changes. Moments like when I spoke to a young Pakistani journalist who'd written an article about donkeys being exploited in the coalmines. She's just as interested in human and animal rights as I am, dresses the way I do and speaks the same way, as well. Like me she spends time thinking about the world, about political issues, and about what we can do to improve things. I know that there are many others like her in Pakistan, people like "us". But "our" media hardly ever talks about them.

So here I am, writing a postcard that includes a religious woman who cooks, a western-oriented woman who fights for animal rights, and a courageous man who doesn't seek psychological support. And again these are stereotypes, and the "we" I used to describe people from the west is a generalization and it just doesn't fit. Describing a complex world without pigeonholing people isn't always easy - especially when it comes to other cultures.

When I tell people in Germany that I really enjoy working in Pakistan they usually can't understand. I ask myself why that is. And then I try to remember a time when the only picture I had of Pakistan was similar to theirs, the one that comes from media reports that only look at the conflicts and turmoil. But I can't. The picture I once had of Pakistan no longer exists in my mind.