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Wine tasting weekend

Katherine SacksOctober 2, 2014

Connoisseurs are rediscovering wines from the Elbeland area in Saxony, once part of East Germany. DW's Katherine Sacks shares the highlights for a perfect wine weekend in the country's smallest wine region.

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Weinberg von Schloss Proschwitz, Copyright: DW/K. Sacks
Image: DW/K. Sacks

Head south, drive just two hours from Berlin and you'll find the Elbe River, home to Germany's smallest, but perhaps most charming wine growing region.

Situated between the foothills of the Ore and Lusatian Mountains, the Saxon Elbeland valley offers visitors a taste of an 850-year-old wine-growing tradition with its manicured vineyards set into the hillsides, picturesque views and impressive landscapes, and preserved medieval towns and historical sites.

A 90-kilometer wine trail connects vineyards, wine shops and wine bars, allowing wanderers and adventurous explorers to roam from tasting to tasting. The path runs along the outdoor patio of the Weinstube Weinkönigin wine bar, and sitting there enjoying a glass of the local Müller-Thurgau, the valley stretched out before us, we watched hikers, bikers, and even rollerbladers passing by.

Tasty range of whites

Despite its location as one of the northernmost wineries in the world, the Saxon Elbland area is known for its fruity, tangy and dry white wines. The three primary grapes grown in the region are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, and White Burgundy.

For a regional specialty, look for Gold Riesling, a light Riesling with mild acidity and a delicate floral aroma that is only grown in the Saxony area. And although red wines are not as common, we enjoyed several glasses of Spätburgunder throughout our visit as well.

Meissen Albrechtsburg, Copyright: DW/K. Sacks
Not to miss: Albrechtsburg in MeissenImage: LianeM - Fotolia.com

Dotted along the trail are several large towns that make for a great weekend getaway. We choose Meissen, a nearly perfectly preserved medieval town of winding cobblestone streets that lead up a steep hill to the impressive Gothic-style 15th-century Albrechtsburg castle.

Blast from the past

As equally as impressive as the area's wine tasting options is a tour of the castle; we spent several hours one morning wandering around its floors, which are impeccably well kept and document its foundation in 1471, the history of the Saxony region and its importance as a European power during the Middle Ages, and the castle's later transformation into a porcelain factory in 1710.

Thanks to a great audio tour - which includes readings of letters and writings from Albretchsburg's former monarchy, as well as period music and poetry - along with an enormous collection of clothing, furniture, artwork, porcelain, and other artifacts, we truly had the sense of stepping back in time.

After several hours touring the castle, our energy had tapered off, but for history lovers, the cathedral next door is also open to tours and offers a nice view over the Meissen area.

View over the Proschwitz vineyard towards Meissen, Copyright: DW/K. Sacks
View over the Proschwitz vineyard towards MeissenImage: DW/K. Sacks

Quaint local specialties

Back on the winding streets of Meissen, we wandered through town, stopping to peruse the town's local boutiques, artisan porcelain shops and wine bars. (Although unfortunately closed on our Monday visit, the Zieger bakery and its local specialty pastry, a light and airy pastry called the Fummel, caught our eye.)

To refuel, we stopped at a traditional German Gasthaus for lunch in the town's main square. Along with several restaurants and shops, the square is home to the simple, yet beautiful Church of Our Lady and its stunning porcelain carillon which rings throughout the day. Afterwards, we peeked into a few wine shops, including Saxon Wine Cooperative, which offers cellar tours and tastings also sells a variety of local wines in its shop.

Hike off the wine

Although there are several wine restaurants and bars within Meissen's inner walls, for proper wine tasting we decided to head back out onto the Saxon wine route. Schloss Proschwitz is one of the better known wineries in the region, and its vineyards include an easy three-kilometer hike, which offered us a great vista point looking over the Elbe Rive onto Meissen and its domineering castle.

From the hike's trailhead, it's just a quick drive to Proschwitz's small tasting room, where we sampled a number of their wines, as well as several varieties of fruit schnapps. For further tasting in Meissen, other nearby wineries include the family-run Weinhaus Schuh and Vincent Richter, whose white wines took two Berlin Wine Trophy awards in 2014.

Vineyard at Schloss Proschwitz, Copyright: DW/K. Sacks
Schloss Proschwitz is a good place to unwindImage: DW/K. Sacks

To delve into even more wine tasting along the trail, Saxon Elbland is home to a number of other towns to explore. The largest in the area, Radebeul, is also the richest town in eastern Germany, and is home to several charming historic village areas as well as the Karl May Museum, which presents a collection of numerous 18th- and 19th-century American Indian art and artifacts.

In the city center, Weinkeller Am Goldenen Wagen is a popular destination thanks to its cellar wine tasting, with more than 40 local red and whites available, as well as several wines served on tap. And for an in-depth look, the store also hosts vineyard tours, visiting up to five wineries in a day.

More in the area

Outside of Radebeul's main city center and back along the wine trail, Schloss Wackerbarth is not to be missed. Along with their selection of nine varieties of wine, the property - once home to a 17th-century count - boasts beautifully landscaped English-style gardens, a Baroque manor house, and an award-winning Mediterranean restaurant.

The winery - the area's oldest sparkling wine producer - also hosts Sunday classical concerts on their garden terrace during the summer months, which makes for a lovely afternoon.

Moritzburg Castle, Copyright: adogg
Moritzburg Castle can be reached by steam trainImage: Fotolia/adogg

Also nearby is Hoflössnitz, which features a charming Baroque hunting lodge in the center of the well-trimmed vines, all organic grapes used to make the winery's certified organic wine (this first in the region to gain this certification). Hoflössnitz is also home to the only wine museum in Saxony, currently featuring an exhibit on the 850-year-old history of wine growing in the region.

If you travel to the area without a car, or want to capture a bit of the historical romanticism of the region, a 130-year-old steam train travels between these towns (from Radebeul to Moritzburg), making transport between wineries even easier. For those wanting a bit more adventure, there are plenty of walking tours and hike plans available, allowing for a day of wandering and wineries.

Berlin-based food and travel journalist Katherine Sacks blogs at katherinesacks.com and tweets at @LaVitaCucinare.