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The final at the Copcabana

Oli MoodyJuly 14, 2014

A clash between two genuine titans of world football in a stadium considered by many to be the spiritual home of football. For those without tickets, there was only one place to watch the game: Copacabana.

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Fußball WM / Argentinier / Brasilien
Image: Oli Moody

The Fan Fest itself filled early on Sunday, with legions of supporters lining up from the early hours of the morning to make sure they were among the 20,000 allowed in. Another big screen further down the beach gave the rest of the travelling fans the chance to catch the biggest match in world football from one of the most stunning locations imaginable.

As kick-off draws near, and the sun goes down over the hills of Rio, it is hard to imagine any other city in the world hosting a World Cup final. There is simply nowhere that could compete with this outrageously beautiful setting. It almost doesn't feel real, as I stand with the sand beneath my feet and a cloudless sky above my head, the waves just a few meters away and a view that has to be seen to be believed in my line of vision. But I am not alone on the beach.

With their team in the final for the first time since 1990, and the destination a comparatively short journey away, Argentines have more or less invaded the city. There are fans from all over the world here, but the number of supporters from every other country combined is simply dwarfed by the white and sky-blue masses. It quickly becomes clear they are not here simply to see their team win, their choice of songs makes it obvious that schadenfreude is motivation in itself. They mock the embattled locals over their recent humiliations, and a small number of Brazilians respond by claiming that Pele, and not Maradona, is the best player in the history of the game, an argument that will never be resolved.

The partisan crowd makes a lot of noise throughout the first-half. Argentine fans are known for their humorous and sometimes downright offensive songs, and the people here do their bit to enhance that reputation. They break off briefly when Gonzalo Higuain finds the net, and the raucous celebrations make it hard to stay upright. But of course, the assistant's flag cuts the outburst of ecstasy short, and the cheers are replaced with profanities.

Fußball WM Argentinier / Brasilien
Tense Copacabana moments for Argentina fans during the World Cup finalImage: Oli Moody

The mood stays the same until extra-time begins. Suddenly the chants die down, and the crowd becomes hushed. Whether they are tired, nervous or just thinking about Germany's fearsome record in penalty shoot-outs, the change in the atmosphere is palpable. Finally, with 113 minutes played, the event that none of them wanted to believe was possible occurs. Mario Götze's chest and finish silences the few fans still in good voice. After such a tense game, and in such an excited crowd, it is hard to know what kind of reaction there will be. Harder still, because the response is something I never would have expected. The devastated fans ignore the goading of the Brazilians and start to applaud their team.

When Lionel Messi blasts a late free-kick high and wide, everyone knows the game is up. The German fans are jubilant, and the Brazilians relieved that their great rivals were not victorious at the Maracana. Unfortunately the combination is too much for some fans to take. A few minutes after the final whistle, a small group of supporters start throwing chairs and other objects in anger. People rush to get off the beach and escape any further trouble that could be brewing. It's an ugly end to an otherwise perfect experience.

On the streets close to Copacabana, the Brazilians whose warmth and openness has had such a strong effect on foreign fans are pleased with the result. Outside of Argentina, few would begrudge them this minor victory. I have met German fans who, before their semi-final with Brazil, said they would not mind losing because it would make the locals happy, and Dutch supporters who wanted their team to lose the third-place playoff to give the Brazilians something to celebrate. Everywhere I have been in Brazil, foreigners are simply overwhelmed by the welcome they have received and their treatment by the Brazilians. This country and its people inspire incredulity on a regular basis, for all manner of reasons, but you cannot help falling in love with both.

This was supposed to be the World Cup that banished the demons of 1950, but instead it brought disappointment on a previously unimagined scale. I feel for the Argentine fans currently moping around my hotel, but I am pleased that the Brazilians were not forced to swallow the bitterest of pills and watch Messi parade the World Cup trophy around their iconic stadium. They deserved to end the tournament with a smile on their faces.