Inside the handbag

Pockets full of gold

The history of handbags begins in the 16th century when bags had small pouches to separate different currencies. That was necessary because every region and big city had its own coins. Women kept their craft materials and personal belongings in work bags made from embroidered silk fitted to a basket for stability.

Inside the handbag

Detailed work

Handbag research isn't easy, says Johannes Pietsch, a specialist in costume history and curator of the exhibition in Munich. Lots of different sources have to be compared in order to establish the period and purpose for which the bags were used. As was standard for the aristocracy, the name of the owner was printed on the bag - in this case Maximilian, Count von Montgelas (1759-1838).

Inside the handbag

Ornate and practical

The exhibition includes objects like paintings and sculptures depicting the function of different bags and how they were carried. The considerable influence technological developments had on fashion in the 17th century is also made clear. On account of the expansion of the postal network, flat letter-sized wallets were made with multiple pockets made from leather or silk and often embroidered.

Inside the handbag

Fashion revolution

Following the French Revolution, the hooped skirts that women hid their purses under were done away with. Women began to wear narrow dresses and carried bags in their hands. The handle bags of the 18th and 19th centuries look surprisingly modern. The reticule or "Pompadour," a delicate pouch carried with a chain around the wrist, was also popular.

Inside the handbag

Accessories for men

Until the French Revolution, men carried handbags just like women. Men's fashion then became slicker and handbags became something just for women. Today, along with laptop cases and backpacks, handbags for men are also back in fashion, Pietsch says: "Men recognize that it's practical to be able to carry things with them. Men's handbags could even become fashion accessories."

Inside the handbag

Style statement

In the 19th century, modes of travel changed with the railway network. People needed a large, stable bag since suitcases were stored in luggage wagons and women preferred to keep their handbags with them. Marlene Dietrich was a famous handbag carrier and recognized that they could also be used to make a statement. Many of her handbags are on display in the exhibition.

Inside the handbag

Getting creative

In the 1970s it was fashionable to carry a bag that looked like a rolled-up magazine with handles. They were made from the laminated covers of magazines. "These bags were very popular. When women see this bag in the exhibition they often recall owning one themselves," Pietsch says.

Inside the handbag

Collectors' items

Handbags are supposed to be functional, but there are also extravagant designer models and one-of-a-kind editions made by fashion houses like Christian Dior, Cartier and Christian Lacroix. Some handbags have also become collector's items. Princess Gloria von Thurn and Taxis owns a large collection of handbags, including this silk bag from Christian Lacroix.

Inside the handbag

Little black bag

In February 1955, Coco Chanel launched one of the most famous handbag models of all time - the Chanel 2.55. The original version is pictured here. Whether famed, ordinary, minimal or extravagant, the exhibition shows that handbags encase little pieces of history.

Inside the handbag

Looking good

The British Duchess of Cambridge also carries a handbag with a history. As the successor to letter wallets, the clutch is a small handbag without handles carried in the hand or under one arm. In the 1920s, the clutch suited the ideal of the androgynous, slim woman and is currently enjoying a fashion revival.

Author: Amrei Vogel / hw | Editor : Kate Müser